Sardinia 2008

Sardinia 2008

With its hidden coves and spectacular coastline, Sardinia is an island which offers adventure and wilderness... a perfect setting for a group of students from St. David's College to complete their Gold Duke of Edinburgh's sea kayaking expedition and equally important, progress their BTEC qualification.

Day 1. La Conia to Isola Caprera.
With the kayaks finally packed and the sun shining high in the sky, we head out into Baia Sardinia. The first crossing seems big (5km over to the southern tip of Isola Caprera); the wind is against us (although it's only just blowing) and the intrigue and excitement of what lies ahead is foremost in the group's thoughts. What will be encountered? Will anybody capsize? Will there be any sharks? And will they eat us! (Yes, I know !)
Ian & I go ahead and leave the group to paddle by themselves (this happens for most of the week - they are doing their Gold D of E expedition after all). As we reach land, it's pleasing to look back and although the group are a couple of kilometres behind us, it is good to see that they are paddling together. Finally they join us and on a small beach, we sit and enjoy lunch in the sunshine, all 26 degrees of it! This week's going to be good, especially if it stays like this.
The group are left again and Ian and I begin paddling up the east coast of Isola Caprera. This side of the island is wild and uninhabited: full of strange rock shapes and interesting gullies. We stop and wait on a beach, watching the group heading towards us;  but to our disappointment, this time they are spread out in three separate groups, with one of them solo paddling his way along the jagged coastline !!  We get everyone together and let the group know, in no uncertain terms, that if separation happens again, the Gold expedition will be failed, before it has really begun !
The reality of this seems to hit home, because at no point for the remainder of the week is the group separated.  I have to say that the challenge of ‘leading' along a section of unknown coastline and keeping group control was taken on board by everyone and I am really proud of the way they all responded to the individual tasks set.
We paddle together to the most northern tip of the island and find a campsite for the night. Tents are put up, a huge fire is lit (to keep away the few mozzis that are still about !) and while there is still some light left, the boys head into the weird rock formations for some ‘bouldering': low-level climbing in safe locations - climbing shoes are definitely worth putting in your kayak if you have the space.

Meeting one of the locals

Day 2. Isola Caprera to Isola Santa Maria

Today starts off with the most beautiful sunrise. On top of this, there is a sea mist and the islands we are aiming for are nowhere to be seen. We pack up camp, hatch a plan and begin our day of island hopping. The first crossing takes us to Isola Maddalena and from there, we continue heading north and link up with the islands of Barrettini, Piana and Corcelli. Again, Ian and I await the group by a lighthouse at the top of this chain of islands. The wind has picked up and although they say there is little tide in the Mediterranean, there is definitely the feel of water moving below the boats ! 
Admittedly, we get quite nervous awaiting the group (we hadn't discussed with them which side of the islands to go around). Finally and to our relief, the group is spotted heading around the east coast of Isola Piana.
We paddle again as one big group across to Isola Santa Maria and although we plan to paddle between a gap in the islands, we miss it and end up paddling around the northern coast of Isola Presa.
The Arcipelago Di La Maddalena is truly beautiful. The water between the islands is quite shallow in places, which means that when the sun shines, the water is turquoise in colour. It also provides shelter from most directions of wind, which lends itself to numerous camping possibilities.
We find a fantastic campsite:  another secluded bay with a perfect flat open area for our tents. The only issue with this campsite are the obvious signs of wild boar - it's not long before the group pluck up courage to go 'wild boar hunting' and as they disappear into the twilight, Ian follows quietly behind them. This of course ends in fits of giggles and screams as Ian does his best wild boar impression, scuffling around in the undergrowth ! The group put up their tents but this time, bravely, they bivvy out under the stars (and the mozzis !)

Day 3. Isola Santa Maria back to main land Sardinia (Cala Balcaccia)
Our morning is spent paddling around the island of Razzoli. The cliffs and rock formations around this island are magical, with so many different shapes to be made out (see photo - the pig). In the far distance, Corsica and the white cliffs of Bonifacio shine in the sunlight. Two years ago, with another BTEC group, we managed the crossing to Corsica.  One of the objectives of this trip - to climb at Capo Testa - was still a long way off.  So, no time for Corsica today, I'm afraid.
We head back into the shallow waters of the archipelago and paddle down the east side of Isola Budelli. Along this coastline, there is Cala Rosa (Pink Cove, so called because of the sand's unique crimson tinge). Little did we know that landing on this beach is and has been forbidden since 1999!  Being shouted at in Italian, by an old man, as we take off our spraydecks, somehow ruins the beauty of such a perfect beach...we paddle on and have a quick lunch before beginning the paddle back to mainland Sardinia.
Two big crossings are ahead of us, again with a choice of which way to head around the islands. We paddle to Isola Spargiotto and stop for a quick snorkel. Despite there being very few fish (and therefore very little chance of a shark encounter !) the group snorkel and then soak up the sun,  enjoying a well-earned rest.
With the sun beginning to go down, we continue with our final crossing for the day and by the time we get to the mainland, the group are quick to find a campsite for the night. Another fire (the biggest one of the trip), another concoction of horrible dinners and bed - well deserved as we paddled over 19km today.

Day 4. Cala Balcaccia to Capo Testa.
We have been very lucky with the weather all week. Despite the weather forecast suggesting that today would consist of ‘sprinkles' and ‘T storms' (guessing that's Italian for rain and thunder !), Ian & I leave the group to finish packing up the campsite and head towards the port of San Teresa Gallura.  With the wind picking up,  Ian & I  enjoy a leisurely coffee and it's not long before the group arrives and start lunch. Everyone is feeling tired after the big day yesterday; so, after lunch, watching seals launch themselves back into the water helps pick up group morale, made more entertaining with Rootsy's seal impression attempt, naturally ending in disaster !
We paddle together toward Capo Testa and to the end of our trip. The lighthouse is a welcome sight. As we round the corner, the landscape changes dramatically; the extraordinary granite headland looks like a giant's sculpture garden. Sat in your kayak, you begin to feel very small.
We find a beach, land and pitch tents. This place is weird - during the summer months it becomes home to hundreds of travellers and even though there is no one about now, the place is scattered with old camping stoves, used tents and strange dwellings which have been built into the rock.
We spend the afternoon and the following morning bouldering and climbing on the granite cliffs - all low-level, relaxing stuff.
Choppy waters
Day 5. Circumnavigation of Capo Testa (the perfect day trip)

Overnight a huge storm has hit the south of Sardinia causing mass destruction to farmland and buildings. We awake to the noise of a big swell rolling past the mouth of the bay. As we pack up our kayaks for the final time, the group seems nervous about the final stretch of our journey (understandably as some of the waves are pretty big). We launch, head out through a small channel and keep our distance from the rocks as we paddle around the cape. The final moments of our trip are spent surfing back to shore through marvellous clean waves. A couple of capsizes, but nothing to worry about as our trip has come to a perfect end;  and the sun is still shining !!

The group
Ian Pagano, Michael Fairman, Christian Roots, Hannah Bryans, Christina Ramsay and Angharad Collier  (didn't she do well, when ten months ago, she could barely stand after her accident).
Photos by Ian Lloyd Jones and Lucy Body.

My thanks go to the group for organising yet another successful BTEC expedition (and for allowing me to come) - yes, organising the expedition is very much part of the qualification - and to Mike at Location Sardinia for hiring us the kayaks,  providing us with accommodation and sorting all the shuttles.
Jump!
For more pictures of the expedition, click on the gallery below.